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Build Steps

The Reviung 41 is a surface-mount, hotswap build: the diodes, LEDs and switch sockets are soldered to the PCB, and your switches push into the sockets afterwards. We'll prepare the Pro Micro first, then solder the SMD components before fitting the diffuser and assembling the case.

The front of the main PCB (switches and top plate mount here):

Front of the Reviung 41 PCB

The back of the main PCB (reset switch and hotswap sockets mount here):

Back of the Reviung 41 PCB

tip

Have no-clean flux and fine tweezers on hand before you start. Surface-mount work is far easier with flux, and every SMD part is placed with tweezers.

1. Prepare the Pro Micro​

Pro Micro with Conthrough spring-pin headers soldered on

The Pro Micro is socketed onto the PCB with two Conthrough spring-pin headers so it can be removed later. Solder the two headers to the Pro Micro with the end whose holes sit closer to the pins inserted into the Pro Micro.

Before soldering, flash your firmware while the board is still easy to handle:

  1. Install QMK Toolbox.
  2. Connect the Pro Micro over USB and flash the Reviung 41 firmware. A VIA/REMAP compatible build is available so you can remap keys later in REMAP.
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The Pro Micro uses a Micro-USB connector, which is prone to tearing off with repeated use. Reinforcing it with a little glue before you start is well worth the effort.

2. Solder the Reset Switch​

Tactile reset switch soldered to the back of the PCB

Solder the tactile reset switch to the back of the PCB, in the position marked RESET.

3. Install the LEDs​

WS2812B LEDs soldered to the PCB

Install the 11 x WS2812B LEDs (10 rear-facing for underglow, 1 front-facing as an accent). Work through them in order and test each LED before moving on — the LEDs are wired in a chain, so one bad joint stops every LED after it from lighting.

Diagram showing the correct WS2812B LED orientation

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LEDs are orientation-sensitive. Align the notched (cut) corner of the LED with the marking on the PCB, and make sure the data-in arrow points the right way.

Use a temperature-controlled iron around 300°C. Apply flux, pre-tin one pad, seat the LED with tweezers and tack it in place, then solder the remaining pads. Clean the flux and test before continuing to the next LED.

4. Install the Diodes​

Close-up of the diode orientation marking on the PCB

Install the 41 x 1N4148 SMD diodes.

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Diodes are orientation-sensitive. The | mark on the diode must line up with the | side of the ▷| marking on the PCB.

1N4148 SMD diodes soldered to the PCB

Apply flux to both pads, pre-tin one pad, place the diode with tweezers and re-flow to tack it down, then solder the opposite pad.

5. Install the Switch Sockets​

Hotswap switch sockets soldered to the back of the PCB

Solder the 41 x hotswap sockets to the back of the PCB.

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The sockets fit only one way round. Make sure the open mouth of each socket faces outward and doesn't block the central switch hole.

Apply flux, heat the pad and socket together, feed a little solder into each of the two terminals, and hold the socket flat with tweezers as you remove the iron so it doesn't lift.

6. Attach the Diffuser​

Acrylic diffuser taped to the main PCB

Attach the acrylic diffuser to the main PCB with double-sided tape, textured side facing up. Line it up with the guide marks on the PCB. This is what spreads the underglow into an even wash of light.

7. Mount the Stabiliser​

2u stabiliser mounted to the front of the PCB

Fit the 2u stabiliser to the front of the PCB for the thumb-cluster space key, with the wire shaft facing up. Check from the side and rear that the clips are fully engaged.

8. Attach the Pro Micro Protection Cover​

Pro Micro protection cover fitted to the top plate

Attach the acrylic Pro Micro protection cover to the top plate using the spacers and screws. Peel the protective film off the acrylic parts first.

caution

Do not overtighten the screws — acrylic parts can crack. Snug is enough.

9. Assemble the Plates​

Build up the case from the bottom, fixing the metal spacers to the bottom plate, seating the main PCB, then the top plate, and tightening the screws down from the top-plate side.

Bottom plate of the case

Middle plate layer of the case

Top plate fitted to the case

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If you added the optional middle acrylic plates and silicone sheet, layer them in the same order as the Reviung 39 Mk-II: lower middle plate under the PCB, then upper middle plate and silicone sheet above it under the top plate.

Finally, stick the rubber feet to the five outer positions and the space-key position on the bottom plate.

10. Install the Switches​

MX switches pushed into the hotswap sockets

Push your 41 MX switches down through the top plate and into the hotswap sockets below. Check that each switch's pins are straight before pressing it home — a bent pin will fold under the switch instead of entering the socket.

tip

5-pin (plate-mount) switches may need a firm, even push to seat fully.

11. Install the Keycaps​

Keycaps installed on the Reviung 41

Fit your keycaps and you're all done! The thumb row uses a 2.25U spacebar with 1.25U keys either side (or 1U variants, depending on your keycap set).

The completed Reviung 41 keyboard