Build Steps
The Reviung 5 is a Pro Micro-footprint board, so unlike a fully through-hole kit there are only a handful of components to solder. We'll prepare the controller first, then work through the PCB from the lowest components upward before assembling the plates.
The LEDs (Step 3) and rotary encoder (Step 6) are optional. If you're not fitting them, simply skip those steps.
1. Prepare the Controllerâ
The controller is socketed onto the PCB using two Conthrough spring-pin headers, so it can be removed later if needed. Solder the two headers to the controller with the end whose holes sit closer to the pins inserted into the controller.
Before soldering, flash the controller while it's still easy to handle:
Controllers aren't included with our kits, so the firmware you need depends on the Pro Micro-compatible controller you chose when ordering (or sourced yourself). Download the Reviung 5 firmware for your controller from the firmware page, then flash it:
| Your controller | Firmware page tab | File | How to flash |
|---|---|---|---|
| Helios or SVLinky (RP2040) | Helios / Svlinky | .uf2 | Double-tap the reset button (or hold BOOT while plugging in). A drive called RPI-RP2 appears; drag the .uf2 onto it. |
| StemCell (STM32) | StemCell | .uf2 | Double-tap the reset button. A drive appears; drag the .uf2 onto it. Check the StemCell page for any jumpers your board needs. |
| Classic Pro Micro (ATmega32U4) | Pro Micro | .hex | Open the .hex in QMK Toolbox, tick Auto-Flash, then briefly short RST to GND (or press reset) to start flashing. |
Each controller has two firmware options:
- Default: standard QMK firmware with the keymap built in.
- VIAL: the same firmware, plus live key remapping in Vial without rebuilding anything.
Flash your controller before soldering it to the PCB, while it's still easy to handle. If it shows up as a drive (or flashes successfully in QMK Toolbox), it's working. If it doesn't, see Entering the Bootloader.
If your controller has a Micro-USB connector (like a classic Pro Micro), reinforce it with a little glue before you start. Micro-USB ports are prone to tearing off with repeated use.
2. Solder the Reset Switchâ
Solder the tactile reset switch to the back of the PCB, in the position
marked RESET. This lets you put the board into bootloader mode for future
firmware flashing.
3. Install the LEDs (Optional)â
If you're fitting the optional WS2812B RGB LEDs, install them now. There are up
to four positions (RGB1âRGB4); work through them in order and test each
LED before moving on to the next â a single bad joint will stop every LED
after it in the chain from lighting.
LEDs are orientation-sensitive. Line up the notched (cut) corner of the LED with
the GND Ⲡmarking on the PCB.
Use a temperature-controlled iron at around 320°C. Apply flux, pre-tin one pad, seat the LED with tweezers, tack it down on the pre-tinned pad, then solder the remaining three pads. Clean off the flux and test before continuing.
4. Install the Diodesâ
Install the 5 x 1N4148 diodes, one near each switch position.
Diodes are orientation-sensitive. The black bar (the | mark) on the diode must
line up with the | side of the âˇ| marking on the PCB.
Bend the legs, insert each diode from the front, solder from the back, then clip the excess legs flush. Re-flow each cut joint briefly so the exposed metal is sealed with solder.
5. Test the Boardâ
Before assembling the case, connect the board to your PC and confirm every key registers. Bridge each switch's two solder pads with tweezers (or a snipped diode leg) and check that a keypress is sent. Fixing a cold joint now is far easier than after the switches are on.
6. Install the Rotary Encoder (Optional)â
If you're fitting the optional rotary encoder, solder it to the PCB now, before
the top plate goes on. If your encoder uses the extra SMD diode position, fit
that 1N4148W diode as well.
7. Attach the Pro Micro Protection Coverâ
Attach the acrylic Pro Micro protection cover to the top plate using the short M2 screws, spacers and nuts.
Do not overtighten the screws â acrylic parts can crack. Snug is enough.
8. Fit the Switches to the Top Plateâ
Push your MX switches into the top plate until they click home. Make sure each switch is fully seated and that its pins are straight and not bent under the housing.
9. Mount the Top Plate onto the PCBâ
Lower the top plate (with switches fitted) onto the main PCB, guiding all of the switch pins through their holes. Check from the side that every switch is seated flush before you solder anything.
10. Solder the Switchesâ
With the switches fully seated, solder each pin from the back of the PCB. Clean off any flux residue when you're done.
11. Attach the Bottom Plate & Feetâ
Fit the metal spacers to the bottom plate with M2 screws, place the top plate + PCB assembly on top, and secure it by screwing down from the top-plate side. Finally, stick a rubber foot in each of the four corners of the bottom plate.
12. Install the Keycapsâ
Press on your keycaps and you're all done!
