Build Steps
- Prepare Diodes
- Install Diodes
- Solder Controller Headers & Reset Button
- Install Stabilizer (Optional)
- Screw on Standoffs
- Solder Switches
- Flash & Install the Controller
- Screw on Bottom Plate
1. Prepare Diodes
Cut 48 diodes from the included strip. Bend the diode pins 90 degrees (as shown in illustration).
2. Install Diodes
Install diodes to the top of the PCB. Solder diode pins where they stick out of the bottom of the PCB. 48 diodes must be used for all switches to function.
Diodes are direction sensitive. Be sure to install all diodes with the black side aligned to the side with the square solder pad and line through the diode outline (as shown in illustration).
3. Solder Controller Headers & Reset Button
Install the controller headers so that shorter pins are in the PCB and black plastic is on the bottom of the PCB. Solder pins where they stick out of the top of the PCB.
Install reset button to the bottom of the PCB. Solder reset button pins where they stick out of the top.
Do not install the controller itself until Step 7.
4. Install Stabilizer (Optional)
Install a stabilizer for spacebars if used.
Only Cherry-style PCB mount stabilizers can be used.
5. Screw on Standoffs
Install 5 screws and standoffs to the PCB, so that the standoffs are on the bottom (the same side as the controller legs).
6. Solder Switches
Starting from the outer corners, install all switches by snapping them in to top switch plate and then pressing the pins through the top of the PCB. Solder metal switch pins on the bottom of the PCB where they stick through.
7. Flash & Install the Controller
Controllers aren't included with our kits, so the firmware you need depends on the Pro Micro-compatible controller you chose when ordering (or sourced yourself). Download the Contra firmware for your controller from the firmware page, then flash it:
| Your controller | Firmware page tab | File | How to flash |
|---|---|---|---|
| Helios or SVLinky (RP2040) | Helios / Svlinky | .uf2 | Double-tap the reset button (or hold BOOT while plugging in). A drive called RPI-RP2 appears; drag the .uf2 onto it. |
| StemCell (STM32) | StemCell | .uf2 | Double-tap the reset button. A drive appears; drag the .uf2 onto it. Check the StemCell page for any jumpers your board needs. |
| Classic Pro Micro (ATmega32U4) | Pro Micro | .hex | Open the .hex in QMK Toolbox, tick Auto-Flash, then briefly short RST to GND (or press reset) to start flashing. |
Each controller has two firmware options:
- Default: standard QMK firmware with the keymap built in.
- VIAL: the same firmware, plus live key remapping in Vial without rebuilding anything.
Flash your controller before soldering it to the PCB, while it's still easy to handle. If it shows up as a drive (or flashes successfully in QMK Toolbox), it's working. If it doesn't, see Entering the Bootloader.
Install the controller on to the bottom of the PCB so that the components face down (away from the PCB).
Solder pins to the controller where they stick through. Take care to prevent or remove any solder bridges (solder connecting one pin to another) that may form.
8. Screw on Bottom Plate
Screw the bottom plate to the standoffs you installed earlier.
(Optional) Install the provided self-adhesive rubber bumpon feet to the bottom plate.
Ensure the reset hole on the bottom plate aligns with the reset switch on the PCB.
All Done!
Install your choice of keycaps on to the switches, plug in the USB cable to the keyboard and your computer, and you’re good to go!